The Tale of Two Ridges

This past summer a friend and i had a few days off in june and we knew we had to take advantage of a somewhat rare opportunity to hit the road and check a climb off the list. We had both had our eyes on the west ridge of forbidden peak for quite some time now and after learning that cascade highway recently opened we eagerly packed our kits and hit the road. Its just over a five hour drive from Leavenworth to the trailhead into boston basin. we arrived in early after noon and began the unforgiving approach into the clouds. The weather had been touch and go all day with rainstorms moving in and out constantly. The trudge through old growth took a few solid hours and we made the basin by early evening.

A typical north cascades approach "shwacking" is a common term in these parts

many beautiful stream crossings this time of year

Beautiful Boston Basin with weather constantly moving through

We decided to wait until the next morning to make our attempt on the mountain. We awoke to a steady rainfall and worse of all near whiteout conditions. I had spent a rather restless night in my bivy, lovingly referred to as the burrito, and after hours of being fully zipped in to stay dry i was eager to get out. I begged my partners to allow me to join them in their tent. it was a squeeze but i payed my way by boiling water for the crew.

here we are hiding from the mountains wrath 

We sat in the tent and chatted for what seemed like hours while the rain fell, it was my duty to poke me head out every 15 minutes to check conditions. Many sucker holes (random holes in the cloud cover that allow light through for a short while but mean nothing to the actual weather ) had come and gone and we decided to put our gear on and at least head up toward the route just in case we got lucky and had a window to attempt our ascent. 

with visibility remaining low we relied heavily on map and compass just to move across the glacier 

we were able to find the base of the west ridge couloir (although we couldnt see it)

We continued to watch the weather and notices that conditions we only worsening and it was time to make a decision. We had one more day of "stay power" before we needed to back at work but it was clear that if we stayed we would likely spend another day sitting in the tent hiding from the weather. We decided to throw in the towel and made our way back to the trailhead with our heads hung low. We made the trailhead at about four in the afternoon. 

wet and sweaty at the trailhead, sporting my "what can you do?" face.

We resolved to return to boston basin at our next availability but decided that in the future we wouldnt waist our time without a decent weather report. 

As we sat at the Red Robin in marysville bumming over our defeat we decided that not all was lost. we had one more day off and we were determined to make the best of it.

THE SECOND WEST RIDGE

We pulled into the driveway at around ten that night and immediately began packing a light alpine pack for our attempt on the west ridge of Prussik Peak in the upper enchantment plateau. After a few brief hours of sleep we jumped out of bed and drove to the Colchuck Lake trailhead. We began our daunting journey at around seven o clock. We made the usual time to the lake, just under a couple hours and then began the ass kicking soul sucking trudge up aasgard pass. A brief stop for lunch at the top of the pass and we were back on the way by around noon.

The pass (upper center) rises 2000 vertical feet in under a mile.

a beautiful shot of Prussik Peak, the west ridge rises on the left skyline

We arrived at the base of the climb around three pm and sat on the large perched rock to hydrate and gear up for the climb. It was really fun to do this climb in a ultralight style with only a 50m rope, and a handfull of various chocks and tri-cams. The pitches we fun and smooth with exciting exposures and interesting route finding.

Here partner trevor follows the best pitch of the route

takes a stand in an amazing place of exposure 

a victorious moment in an unforgettable setting. Little Annapurna in the back left

A few more pitches of fun easy climbing had us at the summit. we rapped off the north side of the mountain for six or seven rappells and then made our way traversing a steep snow slope back to the bas of the route, this was cold and rather unstable moving with a dangerous runnout if a slip were to take place so we roped it up and simulclimbed the traverse using trees and the occasional chock for protection. Finding ourselves back at our packs by around six we needed to make a decent pace as we really did not want to descend the pass in the dark. we made it to the top of the pass at about 8:45 pm and began the descent. We were pleasantly surprised to find snow conditions idea and we able to boot ski the pass in about 20 minutes!  A stop for some food and the long dark hike out by headlamp had us back at the car around 1:00 am.  This was the longest day of climbing for me to date and at around 18 hours of constant movement on top of two days of climbing and driving previously, i was ready to go to bed. It was a great feeling to have success on Prussik after being shut down in the north just the day before. I look forward to heading back out to Prussik soon, however i think ill pack for an overnight. 

Drying some gear on the porch the next day while the little neighbor girl plays with the dog

GOOD TIMES

A Season of Sailing On the West Side

Jordyn and I had the opportunity to move to western washington for a season during the fall and winter of 2012-13. We arrived in Anacortes on october 15 and quickly settled into our small house which was situated right across the street from similk bay. I was very excited to have been chosen for the spot in Anacortes as we had just purchased the ranger months earlier from the nearby community of La Connor. The previous owner of the boat was kind enough to allow us to leave the boat with him for a few months while we made our transition from Leavenworth to the beautiful coast. After we had settled into Anacortes life i made arrangements to move the boat over to our house. It became very clear that sailing would be my main source for recreational enjoyment over the winter. There were a few key projects that needed to be completed before we could start enjoying the boat so the driveway was the boats first destination.

this is a photo of the boat at her home in la connor the day we bough it! Greg, the previous owner, clearly had cared for the boat very much and it was a joy to have him pass her off to us!

some of the main issues that i felt needed to be addressed before we could get out sailing included a simple modification to the lower shroud (relocating it 10 inches aft), locating a new trailer that would fit the  boat i bit better and be more gentle on her with road wear and tear and then creating a single point lifting system for the crane at the Anacortes small boat center which is where the boat would be kept for the season. All the other simple modifications i felt could be done while enjoying the boat and could wait. 

creating the lifting sling was a bit of a challenge but with much help from a local boat designer and friend Jim we were able to complete it in a day. it consisted of mounting four U bolts through the deck hull joint in balanced locations and then using some material to bring those points to a single point of balance behind the mast. we chose to use a product called amsteal instead of steal cable for its superior strength and easy storage   (THANKS JIM)

this was the very first time we used the lift system, nerves ran high but it all went well, after many more times it became second nature for me to move the boat single handed. this is an amazing setup down at cap sante with all the benefits of dry storage but with the mast up it only took me about 20 mins to get the boat in the water and ready to sail each time!

although we continued to use the large black trailer for a while i still really wanted to get into something a bit more apprpriate for the boat mainly because we knew that the boat would have a lot of real trailering in its future which could be very hard on the hull.

After a lot of looking locally and all over craigslist it became very clear that a boat trailer is hard to come by and in great demand all over the coast. I came to the realization that the only way to do this would be to buy a boat with a trailer under it and then figure our how to dispose of the boat. It turns out that buying an old boat and tailer is much cheaper than just a trailer, who knew?   I ended up buying a old rienell 22 sailboat with a similar style to our ranger and many options for adjustability on the trailer. I was able to pick up the entire package for 600$! the boat was a complete loss but i was able to strip it of any parts that were useable. After salvaging a brand new jib that fits the ranger like a glove!, four lifeline stanchions, a stove, an entire electrical system and the mast and boom we took the boat down to coupeville and had it destroyed at the dump. Unfortunatley the trailer wasnt nearly as nice as the black one but it would do that job at least until i become filthy rich and buy another one. we have since trailered the boat across the state and it did just fine!

this is a fun video of the boat being crushed. even though the boat was a lost cause, its still hard to see a sailboat be destroyed. i wish people didnt let them get in this condition in the first place.

the new trailer is a single axle with a keel slot and some rollers on risers, after spending hours using the crane to adjust things the boat fit great and sturdy for the road!

the new trailer has since gotten new tires and axle and springs

now its time to just enjoy the amazing sailing around Anacortes!  We sailed all winter long and it was a great time to improve my novice skills on some new and exciting water. learning the tides and watching the weather carefully were new skills that had my attention right away. even though i never sailed too far from the harbor it was still very clear that this wasnt the lake sailing that i was used to and needed to be taken very seriously.

Jim and Lis were kind enough to join me on the maiden voyage to help remind me of some skills and build some confidence on the boat, i would be single handing regularly by the end of the season thanks to these two!

sailing wing on wing was one of my favorite things to do

many of the locals talked about how it was too cold to be out on the water in winter but we come from north idaho where it snows and freezes every year so i could not have been happier to be on the water even on Christmas Eve as pictured above! Mt Baker looking beautiful in the background

the addition of the dodger was very exciting, it made sailing on those iffy weather days no big deal and now the large open hole of the cabin was transformed into a large cozy cabin space where Jordyn would often nap as we sailed around the islands. I soon rigged the boat so that i could sail singlehanded while sitting completely inside the cabin which was really fun when the rain started to come down. In this photo the doors have been removed.

  

we left Anacortes and moved back to leavenworth in march and we have not been back to the sounds since. I hope to return next year for a nice long cruise in the san juans now that the boat it better equip and our skills as sailers are growing.

Colchuck Peak via Colchuck Glacier

I had one last day off before we entered into more end of the year conferences with the staff team and even more importantly before we moved back to Idaho for the season. I knew that i would miss Leavenworth and the cascades dearly while I was away so i had to take advantage. I decided that i would spend the day going for a summit on Colchuck Peak via the glacier, it seemed like a reasonable goal for a day and i looked forward to it because i had never been up Colchuck though i had gazed at it many times from the lake. I really wanted to try the North buttress couloir after i had ready a blog posting by local hardman Jens Holsten but without a partner and with days getting shorter I opted for the simpler approach. I left Plain at around seven planning to arrive at the trailhead by eight. Some unforeseen construction on highway two put me a half an hour behind schedule but i wasnt worried. I made the usual time to the lake  (about an hour and fifty minutes or so). The weather was ideal and i looked eagerly up at my objective.

dragontail peak large and in charge on the left and Colchuck on the right, the glacier forms in between 

I made quick time skirting around the lake and was soon at the base what was to become the crux of the day. the lower moraine was covered in just enough snow to make every step a gamble. the going was slow but with much effort i found myself at the base of the glacier propper.

the glacier to the notch

the great walls of Dragontail were spitting out plenty of ice and the occasional stone. I chose a path more to the right to avoid the hazards and made haste up the steepening snow. towards the top the late season conditions revealed some small open crevasses and a burgshrund. with a large step over i was on my way to the notch.

the shrund

after i gained the notch i rested and enjoyed the views

clear views all the way to Mt Rainier!

from the notch i basically cheated and followed Jens' footsteps to the summit where the views opened up even more!

dragontail and parts of the upper plateau 

mt stuarts north ridge

with snow conditions as good as they were i found myself back at the lake it about an hour where i rested and ate some food and watched the sun dip behind the mountains. timing worked out perfectly and i made a leisurely hike back to the car arriving just as dusk turned to darkness. what i great day to be in the mountains enjoying the creation. 

Kent Ranger 20 sailboat cruise/camp

My interest in pocket cruising has really spiked in the last couple years. this is mostly due to the fact that we (my wife and i) finally bought our own pocket cruiser and have been enjoyer the adventures ever since. Pocket cruising is a form of sailing that embraces the ability of small craft and simple living to pursue cruising adventures usually on inland waterways or coastal passages. Pocket cruising usually refers to boats under 26 feet L.O.A. in our case 20 feet feels just right. I chose the kent ranger 20 very intentionally. these boats were built very sturdily to last the ages (ours just turned 40!!!!, but you would never guess). i also find it to be a desirable boat because of its shorty keel centerboard design with almost 600 pounds of lead ballast in the keel. this gives the boat a stout feel even when the winds pick up, she can hold her own in fact i would say that at any given time i am the weakest link on the boat. And at a modest 20 feet it fits our lifestyle well (easy to trailer and store). GO SMALL GO NOW!!!!


These are some photos and updates from our most recent trip to priest lake in norther idaho

We sailed the lake and pulled into our camping site at kalispell island each night where some friends slept ashore and the wife and i stayed aboard!  if you like crystal clear mountain waters, beautiful scenery and plenty of room to spread your wings, this is a sailing destination to seriously look into.

here is a photo of the boat at her anchorage in silver bay off kalispell island, this was the first time that we got to enjoy some of the improvements that i had made to the boat including the new dodger top shown here as well as new cushions for the v berth.  the dodger is more that just a luxury for the kent ranger, with the open cabin design its necessary to keep the elements out and it also creates a very large and cozy cabin space beneath. it covers the entire cabin opening as well as two full zip doors on the back!. (ranger 20, kent ranger 20, ranger sailboat)


here are some photos of the cushion job that i did myself for around 200$ which was mostly the cost of the vinyl as i had been collecting foam here and there for months. my work wasnt perfect but i am very pleased with the final product which made for many comfortable nights sleeping for me and the wife.

the darker foam is denser for sitting and for heads at night

moching up the covers

the final product, the center is removable because that is a table that rises up for eating or playing cards etc... ( ranger 20, kent ranger 20, pocket cruiser )

we enjoyed a beautiful afternoon of sailing on our second day. here my wife jordyn sits on the edge and enjoys the scenery. (ranger 20, pocket cruiser )

in this photo you can see that i have used a block mounted near the toerail to direct both halyards aft, this makes a world of difference when singlehanding the boat. you can also note the lower shroud modified to be mounted 10 inches aft of the main chainplate as per manufacturer recomendation.

 Ranger 20  Pocket Cruiser

here the boat sits durring some calm time while we enjoy beach life. i have a pulley system mountain to the anchor and the beach so that i can draw the boat closer to the beach and back out again without having to go for a swim, i couldnt quite bring it all the way to dry sand due to the keel however with the soft sandy bottoms of priest lake i didnt mind allowing to keel to touch which allowed me to access the boat in only ankle deep water.

we awoke on our last morning to a nice steady rain. this is where the dodger comes in very handy. we all gathered inside the cabin (three of us and two dogs) very comfortably and stayed dry and warm. i cooked up some water for tea and breakfast and we watched the rain fall. i decided to throw up the genoa and we ghosted out of the bay. ( ranger 20, pocket cruising )

this was my first time sailing with a boston (baxter) but he proved to be good company and made himself very comfortable on board 

we were sorry to have to leave the lake but it was back to the real world for a while, it takes me about an hour to get the boat all buttoned up and derigged after it was retrieved. this was the first time that i had every retrieved the boat on a traditional ramp (in anacortes we used a crane) and it shed light on some more modifications that need to be made to the trailer to make ramp launching easier.

the boat is now happily stored in the family barn for the bitter northwest winter season. we cant wait to take her on another cruise soon!

First day in our new hometown

some more photos from our week

 the top of the first pitch of the route CANARY, just to the right it the STEP OF FAITH where you must step out onto an apposing rock face over the void and continue from there, classic route for the area!

 our bedroom and a queen sized bed is just right

 Our walk in closet is more than enough to hold our gear and clothes

this is the drop at my favorite burger joint in ellensburg!  the drop just happens to have an awesome covered storage area while at the ranch!  how lucky

this is my city, you can keep yours

GET AWAY!